Cheese Day in Laruns, celebrating pastoralism and Béarn traditions in early October

While September marks the end of summer holidays for many of us, for shepherds and their flocks it signifies the end of transhumance in the Béarn mountains. In the Ossau Valley, it will soon be time to savor the first Ossau-Iraty cheeses of the summer season, the only farmstead cheese made from pure sheep's milk with Protected Designation of Origin status in Béarn and the Basque Country.

It is on this occasion that the annual Laruns Cheese Fair takes place on the first weekend of October: an unmissable event to celebrate pastoral culture and fully immerse oneself in the flavors of the Pyrenees region. The program includes traditional dances and songs, concerts, exhibitions, sheepdog and sheep-shearing demonstrations , cheesemaking workshops, demonstrations of old crafts, tastings, a vintage market, and the famous competition that rewards the best summer cheeses of the year! So many authentic moments to experience and share with family and friends throughout this festive weekend in Laruns.

Attention cheese lovers and foodies!

Here's a gastronomic event not to be missed! The village of Laruns dons its festive attire and establishes itself as a true cheese capital with its fair dedicated to this noble dairy product: the " Hera deu hromatge." The fruits of the summer labor of landless shepherds are celebrated: 20 shepherds offer tastings of their cheeses, 30 participate in the competition for the best cheese, 750 cheeses are displayed in the market hall, and more than 1,000 cheeses are sold over the two days. It's worth noting the impressive size of these cheeses, which weigh between 3.8 and 6 kg according to the Béarn tradition, or between 1.8 and 3.3 kg, typical of the Basque Country. Spring cheeses or summer cheeses, the farms compete with each other in flavor to entice visitors' palates. Enjoy without moderation!

To fully appreciate the different aromas and subtle flavors of the cheese, a tasting workshop is led by a professional from the School of Taste and a shepherd-producer from the Ossau Valley, combined with a Jurançon wine tasting. Its delicate aromas, its textures ranging from supple to firm, its more or less intense flavor depending on its aging… and always that characteristic light hazelnut flavor… Ossau-Iraty will hold no more secrets for you! This sheep's milk cheese pairs wonderfully with local black cherry jam.

On both sides of the fair, the shepherds are delighted to explain the production process, the aging period (between 80 and 120 days), and to share their experience of the pastoral world and their evident passion for the animals and the mountains. Historically, sheep's cheese has played an important role in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques: in the 14th century, it was the primary source of income for shepherds and an official form of currency in many lease and sales contracts.

A showcase of the Béarn region and its regional specialties

While cheese is undeniably the star of the show, other regional specialties are not to be outdone! Showcasing local expertise and the culture of Béarn, Gascony, and Occitania, numerous producers present a wide array of culinary products and local flavors: Basque cakes, spit cakes, hams and charcuterie, chestnuts, traditional breads, honeys, homemade jams, wines, and brandies. Typical dishes like chicken in a pot and Pyrenees lamb are featured on the menus of all the restaurants in Laruns during this gourmet weekend.

Besides regional gastronomy, many artisans showcase other local and typical products of the region: Basque espadrilles, leather and sheepskin products, mohair wool clothing, etc. The fair welcomes more than 120 exhibitors, artists and producers in the old-fashioned market organized in the village streets, pedestrianized and straw-covered for the occasion!

Highlights of the Laruns Cheese Fair

Besides the culinary delights, the festivities are in full swing all weekend long, much to the delight of the thousands of visitors who attend each year. Here are the highlights and activities not to be missed!

• Musical entertainment : the village comes alive with the sounds of musicians strolling through the streets (Béarnaise music, traditional songs and dances, brass bands). Concerts and dances also add to the weekend's festivities.
• The "Biftekade" under the big top : on Saturday evening, this grand meal showcases Béarn beef, an exceptional local product, in a convivial atmosphere that continues into the evening at the bodega (menu and reservations via the tourist office). On Sunday at lunchtime, a special meal is also offered under the big top, and many of the village's restaurants feature sheep's cheese.
• The People's Choice Award and the Children's Choice Award : on Saturday, the public is invited to choose and award the best cheese. A selection of tasters, supervised by an industry professional, hones their palates using a rigorous method. The Children's Choice Award is reserved for young cheese lovers!
• The Shepherds' Mass : celebrated on Sunday morning in the village church, in the presence of shepherds and Ossau musicians.
• Live cheesemaking demonstrations: discover the shepherd's trade and the basics of cheese production. Each year, a guest region also presents its cheese specialties.
• Shearing a flock of sheep : whether with scissors as in the old days or with clippers, this demonstration showcases great skill and a strong bond with the animals. With a focus on animal welfare, the movements are precise and the sheep docile. A spectacle not to be missed!
• Pastoral demonstrations : sheepdog work, shepherds' races, Basque strength and whistled language are added to the weekend's entertainment (program to be confirmed with the tourist office).
• The cheese competition, organized by the Ossau Valley Farm Producers, is open to shepherds who make "pure sheep's milk" cheeses in the Ossau Valley. The jury, composed of professionals from the cheese industry and the restaurant sector, tastes the submitted batches without any distinction, in order to remain as objective as possible. The cheeses are classified into two categories: summer pasture cheeses and winter cheeses. Judging criteria include: the rind (color, texture, grain, holes), firmness, elasticity, and aroma (hay, fruit, flowers, earth, etc.). The awards ceremony takes place on Sunday on the main stage!
• The forage competition : good cheese starts with good forage! Since sheep are ruminants, the quality of their diet is crucial to the taste of the cheese. Samples of forage are therefore presented and judged according to various criteria: type of cutting, botanical composition, visual quality (smell, color, proportion of stems and ears, etc.).
• The old-fashioned market : more than a hundred exhibitors (artisans, producers, associations) take over the village streets, with farm sheep's cheese being sold directly by the shepherds.

A perfect family outing, this cultural event is very popular with children thanks to the many activities organized especially for them: children's choirs, concerts, and entertainment in the center's parking lot next to the big top. The educational farm offers the opportunity to learn more about Pyrenean breeds and pet the animals.

An age-old event in the Ossau Valley: from St. Michael's Day to the present day

The first cheese fair dates back to 1885, on St. Michael's Day, September 29th. This important gathering in the valley took place in Béost, bringing together wholesalers, traders, and livestock dealers from Bordeaux and Toulouse to buy sheep, horses, cows, and lambs. This event was traditionally followed on the first Saturday of October by the cheese fair held in the market halls of Laruns. Returning from a long summer grazing period, the shepherds would come down from the mountains with their summer's produce, ready to be weighed by the local constable. The local agricultural fair was responsible for selecting the best cheese according to well-established quality criteria. While the cheese trade is now organized year-round, this festive event remains a guardian of deeply rooted traditions, where each profession comes together to create a hub of commercial exchange and a convivial and welcoming atmosphere !

How do I get there?

• From Pau, upon reaching the Béost bridge at the entrance to Laruns, a team of volunteers will direct you to the large free Laneplaa car park. Free shuttle buses are available from the car park to transport visitors to the Fair, located a 10-minute walk away.
• For motorhome owners, spaces are reserved along the old railway line overlooking the RD934, at the Pon ridge, on the grassy area of Espalungue and in the car park behind the swimming pool.
• Entry to the fair is free. To participate in the festive dinners offered by the restaurants around large, informal tables, it is advisable to book in advance.

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