The Pyrenean Valleys

Béarn is rich in three Pyrenean valleys of great beauty. They are called the Ossau Valley, the Aspe Valley and the Barétous Valley. These three valleys, with a very strong pastoral identity, have as their anchor point Oloron, one of the oldest towns in Béarn, where the Gaves d'Ossau and Aspe meet. Then, they form the Gave d'Oloron. The Ossau Valley is dominated by the emblematic summit of Béarn, the Pic du Midi d'Ossau, whose particular shark-tooth shape attracts attention in all parts of the region. It is a magnificent valley, whose history is rich in particularities.

Map of the Pyrenean Valleys in Béarn

The inhabitants of the Valley have always had a lot of autonomy and established their own democratic functioning very early on, punctuated by transhumance. The latter still constitute today, at the beginning of summer, an event not to be missed. The emblematic product of the valley is of course the sheep's cheese, of a taste quality labeled by the Ossau-Iraty appellation. It is known and recognized well beyond the region.

The Aspe Valley is close to both the Basque Country and Aragon on the Spanish side, while being typically Béarnaise. It is therefore a valley with a very strong identity and a strong character. But, the Aspe Valley is also, and above all, a valley of breathtaking beauty. Cirques, needles and other gorges coexist in perfect harmony. It is an opportunity to discover magnificent little picturesque villages such as Escot, Bedous, Lourdios or Accous.

The Barétous Valley, on the border of the neighboring Soule and therefore of the Basque Country, is a very green region made of meadows and pine forests at altitude. It is the valley of origin of the three musketeers, Aramis, Porthos and Athos, who, forced to flee the overpopulation of the time in the Valley, like many cadets, then enlisted in the special troops of musketeer regiments: the famous cadets of Gascony.

Landscapes of the Barétous Valley

Oloron-Sainte-Marie, at the confluence of the Gaves

Sub-prefecture of Béarn, Oloron-Sainte-Marie is a very old city at the confluence of the Gaves d'Ossau and Aspe which constitute the Gave d'Oloron, after their meeting. It is therefore of course a strategic place on the roads to Santiago de Compostela, and, today, a listed city of Art and History.

One of the striking images of Oloron when you arrive on the mountain spanning the Gave is this row of tall houses plunging into the Gave. But, the city is multiple. Absolutely worth visiting:

• The Sainte-Marie district and the treasure of its cathedral.
• The Sainte-Croix district, its church and the Grède tower.
• The Notre Dame district, the church there too, as well as the crypt.

• In Oloron-Sainte-Marie, visit the pretty villa of the Pays d'Art et d'Histoire des Pyrénées Béarnaises. It is an interpretation center on local heritage and architecture.
• There is also the Heritage House which allows you to learn more about the life of the Béarnais in these valleys which have always been self-sufficient.
• Fans of renewable resources will be interested in the life of the local hydroelectric power station and its production of electricity through dams.
  
• Not far from Oloron, there is a pretty village: Aren. It has a group of 2 castles in a stone setting against a backdrop of mountains.

Aramits and Arette The Saint-Martin stone

In the Barétous Valley, Aramits is the stronghold of a musketeer whose name you will have recognized. It is an interesting holiday resort for hiking enthusiasts, because nature is directly accessible here. It is green, the food is good and you are only a few kilometers from the village of Arette and the large ski resort of La Pierre Saint-Martin. You will find a beautiful 75 ha alpine ski area on 24 slopes. Beginners are not left out, since there is an area specially dedicated to the first slides on the snow, with ski lifts. The rest of the ski area also appeals to experienced skiers, because there are modern and fast ski lifts.

Do you like sledding ? There is a dedicated area for sliding on your buttocks and acrobats will have fun in the freeride area. It is a very pretty resort that takes special care of the village, dotted with pretty chalets, very photogenic and pleasant to live in.

Detail of pretty houses in Aramits

Visit the Aspe Valley: Sarrance, Bedous, Accous, Lescun, Urdos...

We start at the very top.

• Sarrance is on the way to Santiago de Compostela, on the via Tolosane. It has a religious heritage to discover, such as a 17th century cloister and a chapel from the end of the 18th century. In the town, the monastery of Sarrance (of Saint-Norbert) is a haven of peace that regularly welcomes the faithful. There is also the ecomuseum of the Aspe Valley, ideal for learning more about local customs and life in this pleasant corner of Béarn.

Sarrance © AdobeStock_AngelLuis

• We continue towards Bedous, a typical mountain village. It is made up of old traditional houses and a pretty market square. To obtain valuable information on this territory, head to the Aspe Valley tourist office.
• Accous, is the capital of the canton of the Aspe Valley, located near the Gave d'Aspe. It is a bird conservation area. So remember to take your binoculars and a book to identify them! Accous is nestled at the exit of the Iseye cirque. Here, nature is generous and sumptuous. Bring your hiking shoes and venture out in search of the last (or first?) bears of the Pyrenees. Pastoralism is a very useful activity here, because it contributes to the preservation of biodiversity. Accous is a very popular spot for paragliding. Wouldn't it be the time to try your hand at paragliding?

• The Espace Ludopia leisure park, with unusual fun courses, will please the whole family.
  

• Lescun is crossed by the GR10. People come here for its magnificent panorama where it is possible to go hiking to the cirque of Lescun. It is the highest commune in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques, with an altitude of 900 m! Overall, it is a top place for hiking. Several routes lead to emerald mountain lakes, in a breathtaking natural environment. Also take a stroll in this typically mountain village with its stone houses with steep slate roofs.

Lescun © AdobeStock_Roger

• Welcome to the last French village before the border with Spain: Urdos. This former customs post, on the way to Santiago de Compostela, is the ideal starting point for splendid walks... Visit the surprising Fort du Portalet, built on the cliff and partly troglodyte.
• From Urdos, you will access the Nordic ski resort of Somport at an altitude of 1,600 m as well as the Somport tunnel which has connected France and Spain without going through the pass since 2003. Extensive and at the heart of a magical panorama, Somport enjoys good snow cover for its 25 km of cross-country ski trails. For snowshoe enthusiasts, there are 9 km of specially dedicated trails.

© Rainer-bleek- Unsplash

The Ossau Valley: Rabénacq, Arudy, Laruns, Les Eaux-bonnes and Gourette

• The bastide of Rébénacq, in the Ossau Valley, where a small stream flows, ideal for fish farming, is ideally located to discover Béarn. Founded in the 14th century, it has the traditional shape of the bastides, except that the ornaments of the houses change with the times. This particularity can be discovered during a walk, following the information panels in the bastide.
• Not far away and still in the Ossau valley, take a stroll in Arudy, the most populated village in the valley.

Laruns © AdobeStock-Lukasz-Janyst

• Laruns is a must-see ! It is crossed by the Gave d'Ossau and is located only 40 km from Pau. It is a popular destination for summer weekends. Discover its pretty streets, with their quality built heritage.

In the village, admire the Gabas chapel, the Saint Pierreu church, the small wash houses and fountains. The old houses as well as the train station date from the thermalism period, when in the 19th century, the Pyrenean destinations were very famous.

Laruns is the starting point for several hikes. In particular, head to Lake Bious-Artigues (1,400m) and its changing colours depending on the seasons and the weather. It is also a sporting place where you can go canyoning and rent a mountain bike to tackle the small paths.

• Further south, Eaux Bonnes - Gourette. It's thermalism that meets winter sports. At the origin of the development of thermalism in this mountain village, we find the Empress Eugénie. She frequented the place to treat her respiratory tract. Today, people go to Laruns and Eaux-Chaudes, its neighbor, for cures. People also come to this region to enjoy, all year round, the joys of the mountains and, in particular, in winter, where the Gourette ski resort is located. It was the first ski resort created in the Pyrenees, in 1908! Since then, it has of course been renovated and its large and modern ski area extends over 120ha and 42 slopes. The slopes are wide, well served by chairlifts and fast ski lifts.

Gourette © AdobeStock_sasha64f

The Shepherds and the Béarnaise pastoral tradition

The wealth of Béarn has long come from its flocks of sheep and their wool. The shepherds of the "Béarn d'en haut" looked down on the Béarnais of the plain with superiority. It must be said that pastoral life remains very rich.

Nature and Leisure

You are here in the western part of the Pyrenees National Park, and therefore in a protected area. You may be able, while hiking, to see an ibex (Pyrenean chamois), a vulture dismembering its prey or even, but this is much rarer and more dangerous, cross paths with a bear. They have been reintroduced in the Pyrenees with great media fanfare, for about fifteen years. It must be said that, since the beginning of the last century, the bear had almost disappeared from the Pyrenean chain, going from a population of more than 150 to less than 6 at the beginning of the 1990s.

Ibex, encountered at Parc'Ours - Photo @ Lesley Williamson